A New Chapter at Courrèges
An intriguing observation from Vogue highlights that Nicolas Di Felice was appointed to Courrèges in the same year Jean-Paul Gaultier retired from his eponymous brand, passing the torch to younger talents. Notably, Di Felice, relatively new to the role, follows in the footsteps of established designers like Simon Rocha, Chitose Abe, Haider Ackermann, and Olivier Rousteing, who have each brought their unique interpretations to the Gaultier legacy. Di Felice, a 40-year-old Belgian designer with experience at Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton, brings a fresh perspective. He recalls being inspired by Gaultier’s iconic cone bra for Madonna during his youth, a symbol of Paris’s limitless possibilities for those who felt different.
The Parisian Magic
At last night’s show, several key points were evident. Firstly, Courrèges made a wise choice, as Di Felice has truly revitalized the brand. Secondly, Paris remains a city where the seemingly impossible becomes reality, exemplified by the synergy between Di Felice’s minimalist, “cold” style and Gaultier’s rebellious archives.
A Unique Approach to Couture
Di Felice approached the collection by choosing a unique reference for each of the 33 looks, with a crochet hook serving as the unifying element. Discovering an embroidered fabric sample in the archives, he used the crochet hook to create draped, form-fitting silhouettes in gabardine de soa, gazar, and taffeta. This creative endeavor showcased the transformative and adaptive nature of couture, a feature that Di Felice clearly enjoyed exploring.
Innovative Designs on the Runway
On the runway, we witnessed an array of innovative designs: trench coats and jackets with raised collars resembling niqabs; narrow jacket dresses with open backs and necklines adorned with translucent fabric; and denim paired with leather and knitwear. A quilted jumpsuit was embellished with silk, while Gaultier’s signature corset was reimagined as part of a skirt with added pockets—a detail Di Felice also featured in Courrèges’ autumn-winter show.
A Masterpiece in Chainmail
The penultimate look was a breathtaking chainmail dress composed of 40,000 interconnected hooks and loops, demonstrating Di Felice’s dedication to craftsmanship and innovation.
Nicolas Di Felice has proven that he can breathe new life into Courrèges while honoring the rebellious spirit of Jean-Paul Gaultier. His fall-winter 2024 couture collection is a testament to the transformative power of fashion and the endless possibilities of creative expression in the heart of Paris.
